The return of the Chanel Aesthetic

Karl Lagerfeld has always exceeded the vision of the most fashionable women, and he knows it. But, much like his clothes, he does so in a quietly elegant and perfected way.

The Chanel aesthetic has been preserved, nurtured and developed, and it is reaching a peak yet again. ‘Monochrome chic’ is suddenly awash on the catwalk and high street alike - Chanel, Givenchy, Donna Karen and H&M are all basing their current collections on a classic Parisian colour pallet. Unlike seasonal trends, however, the clothes that Chanel first introduced go hand in hand with a traditional lifestyle which will forever be etched into modern culture.

In 1909, Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel reinvented fashion by quite simply going back to basics. Indeed, some years later she confirmed to Harpers Bazaar that “simplicity is the keynote of all true elegance.” But what arguably gave her a helping hand in her success was the arrival of the First World War. Women were suddenly becoming people of work, and with new roles their clothes had to change. Chanel’s long linen skirts, jersey sweaters and blazers offered the style and comfort that was so desired.
To make something so simple become iconic, the quality and visionary aspects had to be extraordinary. Chanel made clothes to flatter the new slimmer, flatter figure of the twenties. She did not try to turn a woman into an exhibition. The lady who wore Chanel stood up straight, made the most of her best features, and lived a pristine life. Here was a designer who was subtly liberating women, in a way that men could accept.

When it came to evening wear, Chanel’s first popular piece in 1926 was a black evening dress in lace and embroidered tulle. The silhouette and fabrics used became the trademark of all things chic. In fact, it could be said that Chanel invented the ‘little black dress.’ Even now, Lagerfeld’s collections are parallel to the creative vision that was unveiled all those years ago. Coco’s most famous quote put this vision into words perfectly:
“For me, black has everything. So does white. They are absolute beauty; the perfect match. Dress a woman in white or in black at a ball and all eyes will be upon her.”
Recently, the label Coco Mademoiselle was launched for younger fashion followers. It became apparent that young women were starting to favour a tailored, mature look – girls were seeing the importance of quality and key pieces, rather than quantity. One young French woman, Audrey Tautou, caught the spotlight globally. After Amelie, she made a succession of films that put French elegance back into the mainstream. Her timeless simple beauty and charisma brought people back down to earth.

Tautou is now the spokesmodel for Chanel No. 5, taking the place of Nicole Kidman. She is also filming Coco Avant Chanel in which she plays none other than Coco herself. The film is scheduled for release in April. A Hollywood production made 38 years after the subject’s death surely justifies all that is currently happening in the world of fashion.

There is no doubt that the present collapse of our economy is changing the actions of both consumers and producers of fashion. There is a sudden want for clothes that are timeless, simple, and easy to wear. The monochrome trend has no specific time or place. A daytime look can be transformed into a night time look with the removal of a layer and the addition of some black heels. What makes Chanel inspiring is that it mixes trends with original aspects, and other designers follow suit.

The return of quilting, leather, gold and pearl is apparent, and is of course reminiscent of the Chanel quota. When dressed in a well fitting black pea coat (seen in H&M) with a white lace dress (New Look,) black tights and patent ankle boots, a woman feels together. She feels elegant, and although it won’t be admitted, she feels rich! As mentioned, the look can indeed go from supermarket to restaurant with no more than a rearrangement of accessories.

Lagerfeld’s most recent haute couture show in Paris was one to behold. The theme was white, and the material, paper. Every corner of the vast area was adorned with hand made paper flowers which transformed into a wonderland that only Lagerfeld could have envisioned. Only Chanel can turn the simplest of things into the want of every wealthy client. Only Chanel can inspire a retreat into the basics of fashion and design. Whether it was inspired by the recession or not, this show confirmed that Coco’s aesthetic will always have a place in our hearts.

You could say that fashion has no place for post-modern experimentation. Or, you could say it is not just about trends. Maybe there comes a time when a person does not dress to be right, or wrong. She does not wish to be revolutionary, and she has tired of blindly ploughing through trends that do not suit her. Which leads her to return, as fashion always does, to the pure elegance, outline, beauty and comfort that ultimately makes a woman who she is.